Tuesday, July 23, 2019

ASSAULT ON A SENSES TRIP




Road trips are nothing short of thrilling adventures And when you are up for a road trip from Delhi to Leh, you can be sure of a journey of a lifetime. Leh, the capital of Ladakh, is one of the most sparsely populated regions of India. But nature has blessed this high-altitude mountainous land with immense beauty. We set off again into absolute wilderness with scenes resembling the wild wild west. The landscapes changed with every turn and the plethora of colours could be scarcely believed!

As you head towards this undulating rugged land in the Himalayas, situated at a height of more than 11000 feet, you see dreamy backdrops and picturesque locations that are sure to make your journey as exciting as the destination, if not more.  Whether you are a true-blue road tripper or one who is just starting out, this is one road journey that you need to experience at least once in your life.


So, up to the challenge of embarking on a journey in which the adrenalin rush rises up even as the oxygen levels dip down? 

Normaly delhietes prefer srinagar route to reach leh which help them in acclimatise to high altitude travel, few who are low on holidays schedule prefer directly landing at leh airport, but we choose to Drive to Leh via Manali as it is a trail that will in begining take you through many ups and downs, quite literally. once you start approaching Ghanauli, the uphill climb will begin. Be assured that the refreshing views along the way will more than make-up for the effort you will need to drive uphill.



‘A thousand mile journey begins with the first step.’


On way up from manali

We reached manali in evening we do last minute shopping there, Manali Nestled amidst majestic hills, Manali is a scenic escape etched in greenery and highlighted with snow-capped mountains.  We start our trip from Manali which is at an altitude of 1950m and travel up towards Rohtang La, situated at an altitude of 3980m. We be passing Solang valley and Marhi on our way and covering 51 kms in total.


Solang Valley and Rohtang Pass are among the main attractions near Manali that deserve a stopover after you cross Manali, the road will lead you through Rohtang Pass, a crowned prince of Leh-Manali route. the nature enthusiasts can adore the beautiful views of glaciers, peaks and Chandra river that flows down in the Lahaul valley. Apart from these, you could get a chance to see a waterfall named as Rahala located 16 km from Manali on the way to Rohtang pass.





Rohtang La Pass Considered to be one of the highest mountain passes in the country, Rohtang La is situated on the highway approaching Keylong and then Leh. You can get a glimpse of the incredible meadows, valleys, and mountains from here. The place experiences perennial snowfall, so you can also indulge in a few snow-adventure activities, like snowboarding and skiing.


The journey through Rohtang Pass is full of starts and stops. Perhaps frustrating at times but mostly it is a beautiful slow journey winding between the mountains of the region. I had imagined Rohtang Pass to be a flat high altitude pass hemmed by a string of peaks on both sides. It is nothing like that. The pass climbs up and down the slopes of mountains with many sharp bends. The road is narrow and with traffic in both directions there are frequent jams.



Last bottleneck before rohtang pass after that its very much peace from corwod bustle, We didn't stop there for long as have plans to reach sarchu before night, The rain gods waved us off with a slight drizzle as a good omen for our journey. Rohtang Jot came and went with snow on both sides of the freshly metalled road but it was the other side we was curious about.





(Crossing rohtang pass bustle we’ll be taking a downward slope, crossing through Kokhsar and Tandi (average altitude will be 2500m). After Tandi, an upward journey to Baralacha La through Kelong and Jispa will get you to a height of 4890m. We crossed Kelong, Jispa, Darcha, Deepak Tal, Patseo, Zingzing Bar and Suraj Tal, covering 139.2 km. Suraj Tal is the second highest lake in India, situated just below Baralacha pass.)

Hangout at Waterfall while riding on way downhill of pass


Tinnan valley -

In a way we passed keylong without stopping, Keylong is located in the Lahaul Spiti region and is considered to be a slice of paradise on earth. Blessed with abundant greenery, the place boasts of snow-capped mountains and sparkling rivulets. Gemur and Shashur are two monasteries that you can visit during your stopover at Keylong.

We also pass jispa which Most tourists following the Delhi to Ladakh roadmap select Jispa for their overnight halt. Camping in open fields at an altitude of above 10,000 feet has a charm of its own, don’t you agree? Also, Jispa is blessed with an amazing landscape that adds to the allure of the place.

Also passed Darcha A scenic village located at a distance of 23 km from Keylong, Darcha stands surrounded by pristine valleys and mountains. It is an excellent location for camping and trekking.


The scenic Baralacha La mountain pass is located in the Zanskar region and connects Lahaul to Ladakh. You will be able to have a nice glance over the three valleys that surround this pass that stands at an altitude of more than 16,000 feet above sea level. It is one of the high mountain passes in Zanskar range, and it serves as a connecting point between Lahaul and Ladakh. The source of Bhaga River, Suraj tal lake is situated just a few kilometres from the pass towards Manali. It would be a bonus view of your journey.


The semi-frozen greenish waters of the Surajtaal lake just before Baralacha La woke us up from our reverie as we gasped at how pristine it looked! The pitter-patter of raindrops had turned into gentle snowflakes, in the process making Baralacha La(4850m) my favourite pass.


Temprature in - best place in whole journey for seeker, reached mid night..moved early morning..:((


After crossing Baralacha pass, we start our descent towards Gata Loops  (4190m). We pass through Sarchu on this leg. It is one of the preferred locations for a night stay. If you’re prone to AMS (acute mountain sickness), spend the night at Kelong or Jispa instead of Sarchu. Their lower altitudes will help you get dodge mountain sickness, and you can start early to cover the remaining distance in time. 56.2 km will be included on this section.

The last village of himachal pradesh Sarchu aka Sir Bhum Chum is yet another stunning region that you will come across during your whole travel to Ladakh drive. If you are up for an overnight halt at Sarchu, opt to stay in a camp in one of the open fields dotting this landscape. Sleeping under the starry sky is an experience that you can’t enjoy anywhere else we know off.




(which is true also as the one advised us is our jesht bharata shri ji who is doctor also, kept fuming after the sun starts setting and seeing our careless activities as what first timer do, funny part is only he became ill there only in whole trip๐Ÿ˜œ n slept whole time at out tent in sarchu, while we enjoy sky for which he wants most.๐Ÿ˜)



Reached Sarchu (aka. the vomit hilton) at 4200m.late in night so.....:(( 
(most of adventure on this trip we have is between most snow capped Baralacha pass to Sarchu where we reach in midnight.. but it's worth it every adventure we have in this night drive which is advised by everyone to avoid.)


The adrenaline had well & truly started pumping as we left sleepy-eyed at 4 am next morning. The weather was dull and gloomy complimenting the stark, barren landscapes. We were leaving the state of Devbhoomi Himachal Pradesh behind and entered Jammu & Kashmir. 

Unbelievable wind swept erosion formations just after Sarchu; we dared not even blink our eyes for fear of missing something. 

Before gata loops ( from where we start experiencing the comfort of having 4WD, which helps us clearing every high altitude offroad we take that came in our way after this point)



Those adventurous souls who undertake the journey  to Leh by road on bike are going to love passing through Gata Loops on their way. But having proper 4×4 ride gives adreline rush to a diffrent level, This place is often associated with ghosts! We can’t say for sure whether you will encounter any ghosts or not, but you will definitely come across some excellent views of the region.

The road starts snaking up to the spectacular Nakeela (4900m) with 21 hairpin bends famously called the ‘Gata Loops’ in total merry go round style! These 21 hairpin bends that will push you from 4190m to 4630m via a 7 km stretch. 


After clearing Gata loops we Enter into valley of Natural Rock and Sand Formations along the River Sumkhel Lungpa. 

From there we continue our ascent towards Nakee la, situated at an altitude of 4740m. There are no facilities or habitats in this area. Next stop from Nakee la is Lachulung la. You will now enter the second highest pass on the highway, sitting at an altitude of 5079m. Breathlessness, headaches, nausea and uneasiness are common symptoms. Acclimatisation to higher altitude takes time. Avoid any exertion that might affect your breathing process.

The sun gods had finally decided that it was time for us to be exposed to the azure blue skies that Ladakh has since become famous for. Just when we thought the road could not go any higher, Lachung La (5025m) decided to surprise us with sharp edged mountains. The views of the other side from top of the pass were surreal & majestic. Everything appeared so tiny. In the frenzy of clicking pictures, everybody had made the fatal mistake of exhausting their camera batteries!

In which we passed Lachulung La drive to Leh by road will lead you through this pass that remains open for just less than five months in a year (that is, during the summer). Situated at a distance of 54 km from Sarchu, the pass boasts of matchless mountainous beauty.



Ride, Ride to the sea. The one very close to sky. No camera can capture it. Only your eyes A downward drive from Lachulung pass takes you to Pang (4600). From here, you’ll encounter plains till Debring  (4835m). They are called Moore plains. 

A certain sense of deja vu was felt. Maybe I did not want the road to ever end!

We was about to realise the true essence of being smitten by wanderlust and the uncluttered & unconditional joy a nomadic existence gave us. These mountains loved us back!


At tanglangla ( world 2nd highest motorable pass )


The road meandered along and we were at Morey Plains (4800m). A flat stretch of land without roads, smooth round topped mountains and Tibetan wild asses grazing (visualise that :P). An impromptu race began with Army convoy and we all loved the awesome off-roading experience. The Morey plains led us to the second highest pass in the world – Taglang La(5350m).Debring to Taglang is a steep ascent, covering 14.2 km. 




Taglang pass is the highest point on the highway, situated at an altitude of 5328m. Avoid stopping here for any more than 10-15 mins; high altitude can make you feel nauseous. Tanglang La is considered to be the second most significant mountain pass in this region, second only to the Khardungla Pass. The gorgeous views of the surrounding areas make a stopover to this place worth your time and energy.


Upsi leisure moments:)


From here, you begin your last and final descent towards Leh which is located at an altitude of 3500 m. We pass Rumste and Upshi on our way and reach Leh, covering 108.1 km. 

Before reaching leh A picturesque village standing on the banks of River Indus, Upshi is a delightful place to spend a few serene moments. The village stands near an age-old trading route that once served as the link between Tibet and this region.

Sanity was restored as the road descended and reached Upshi (3400m). Reminds us of Ancient Ladakhi Saying

The land is so barren and the passes so high
that only our fiercest enemies or best friends would want to visit us. 

The land of the lamas charmed us with wide and relatively straight roads as we were ushered into enigmatic Leh. We was secretly hoping for a special welcome & acquiesced ‘To get to heaven; you must pass through hell’. The 475 kilometre Manali – Leh Highway had surely not disappointed us.



By the time we reach Leh,  we acclimatised to higher altitudes and find Leh very pleasing. Conditions are subjective to weather and season. Although the majority of the sections are safe and well-patched, there are some bumpy section you have to look out for.

so finally we reached at calm leh, Most journeys start at Leh,at 9,800 feet.Critical to rest & acclimatise on the 1st day.Choose a place where you can just lie on hammock & listen to the wind Around 14 kms from Leh is the gorgeous Thiksey monastery. The village below is beautiful too or better still,a picnic by a stream, 

To get from Leh to NubraValley (aprox 4.5 hours drive) you have to cross Khardung La,one of the highest motorable passes in the world. Oxygen here is very low. Defence forces provides a pit stop for tea & medical aid As you drive around Ladakh,you can't help but appreciate the incredible work done by the Boarder Roads Organization (BRO). Note their road signs,which are a treat:
"If you are married, divorce speed"
"Better be Mr.Late than Late Mr"

The Nubra valley has many camps, some nestled below Diskit monastery.
From Nubra one can drive to Pamanik,famous for its sulphur hot springs.The villagers have organised a basic covered pool for tourists to bathe.On the way back stop by at Samstanling monastery in 



No trip to Nubra can be complete without a visit to the Hunder sand dunes. A ride on a double hump backed Bactrian camel is a bonus. Must say they're easier to ride than the single humped ones  

It's a 4.5 hours drive from Nubra to Pangong. But we do leh to pangong. The mountains are unstable & rock falls are common. Pangong Soh (lake) made famous by the movie Three Idiots is breathtaking. The downside of popularity is a deluge of littering tourists 
The road from Pangong to Leh takes you via the mighty Changla Pass at 17688 ft. Wise not to spend too much time there & risk falling ill. Some parts of the road are bumpy & under construction.The valleys below make the journey worth it will share later relevant clicks with their respective history share 

Likir: Situated in the Leh area of Jammu and Kashmir, Likir is a lovely town famous for the Likir Monastery. Built in the 11th century, the monastery houses a 75m tall statue of Lord Buddha, which is a sight to behold.

Alchi: A quaint village in the Leh district, Alchi is well-known for the Alchi Monastery. It is an ancient monastery dating back to the 12th century and is definitely worth a visit.

Moonland: If Ladakh is called the Heaven of Passes, the Moonland region is the Heaven of Adventure. The serene and picturesque region is among the most fascinating places to stop at during your road trip.

Lamayuru: Listed among the largest and oldest monasteries in Ladakh, the Lamayuru Monastery is an enticing sight to behold. It stands on a steep mountain and offers exceptional views of the surrounding areas.



Mulbekh: Nestled atop a hill, the Mulbekh Monastery is famous for its two gompas. The monastery has two sub-monasteries within its premises, known as Gelugpa and Drukpa. The statue of Maitreya Buddha is a key attraction here.

Kargil: Kargil boasts of being the second largest town in Ladakh, the first being Leh. The rugged mountainous terrain of this region is a pleasure to witness on any day. While you are to your way to Kargil, make a detour for the Suru Valley. It is considered to be the greenest valley of the Greater Himalayas.

Drass Valley: The Drass Valley is known as the Gateway to Ladakh. Situated along the Drass River, the valley craves attention not just for its natural beauty but for its hot springs as well.

Sonmarg: Alpine forests, green meadows, and incredible views of the surrounding glaciers, like the Machoi Glacier and the Kolhoi Glacier, make Sonmarg a must-visit spot en route.

Srinagar: Standing on the banks of River Jhelum, Srinagar is one of the most scenic cities in the Kashmir Valley. Bordered by evergreen mountains, the placid Dal Lake with its lovely houseboats, adds to the beauty of the place.




Note- this Trip is before August 2019.. (lucky to see it first hand the valley n yatra n...... before aborgation)


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