अजमे हूंतां नागोवाडै, रणथम्भौर गढ़ गागरणों।
कुंकुंण कांछणी,सोरठि,मरहट तिलंग,दीप गढ़ गागरणो।।
यह प्रसिद्ध स्थान कोटा शहर से ४५ मील दक्षिण पूव में और
भालावाड़ नगर से तीन मील उत्तर पू्व में है। यहाँ का किला कालीसिन्ध और आह नदियों के संगम पर एक छोटी पहाड़ी पर बसा हुआा है। इसके तीन ओर कालीसिन्ध नदी है। यहाँ पर कालीसिंध अधिक गहरी व भयंकर पंहाड़ियों में से होकर बहती है। राजस्थान के किलों में इसका स्थान प्रमुख हैं। भौगोलिक हृष्टि व सामरिक दृष्टि से इस किले का महत्व मध्य काल में इतना बढ़ गया था कि कोटा राज्य की सुरक्षा पंक्ति का पहला स्तर यहीं था । किले के पास ही गाँव बसा हुआ है ।
इस किले को डोड (डोडिये) वंश के राजपूतों ने बनवाया था । आइने अकबरी में अबुलफजल ने गागरोण को मालवा का मुख्य जिला लिखा है। जिनके अधिकार में यह १२ वीं शताब्दी तक रहा । यही कारण हैं कि दुर्ग गागरोण इसे डोड गढ़ भी कहा जाता हैं। खटकड़ के खीची राजा देवसी ने अपनी बहन गंगाबाई की शादी यहां के शासक बीजल डोडिया से की थी । बहन की सहायता से खीची देवसी ने बीजल को मार कर इस गढ़ पर अधिकार कर लिया था।
कहते हैं कि देवसी ने अपनी बहन का नाम चिरस्थायी करने के" लिए किले का नाम डोडगढ़ से बदल कर गंगारूण (गंगारमण) कर दिया और इसे अपनी राजधानी बनाया | यहाँ के राजा जेतर्सिह खीची ने वि० सं० १३०० में बादशाह अलाउद्दीन के घेरे का सफलतापूबंक मुकाबला किया परन्तु वि० सं०(ई० सन् १४२६) में राजा अचलदास खींची के समय मालवा के सुल्तान हुसेन शाह ने यह किला जीत लिया लेकिन सन् १४२८ में अचलदास ने पुनः इस किले पर अधिकार कर लिया और सन् १४४८ तक इसे अपने अधिकार में रक्खा ।
सं० १५१९ में यहाँ भीमकर्णा शासक हुआ परन्तु मालवा के शासक महमूद खिलजी ने इस पर आक्रमण किया। राजा भीम हार गया । वह केद कर लिया गया और मार डाला गया । कुछ ही कार बाद सम्बत् १५२१ में उदयपुर महाराणा संग्रामसिह ने महमूद खिलजी को हरा कर इस किले पर अधिकार कर लिया | सन् १५३२ तक यह किला सिसोदिया राजपूतों के अधिकार में रहा। सन् १५२९ में महाराणा साँगा की मृत्यु हुई। सन् १५३२ में गुजरात के बादशाह बहादुरशाह ने चित्तौड़ पर श्राक्रमण किया । उसी समय भागरोण पर गुजरात के बादशाह का अ्रधिकार हो गया | सन् १५६० में जब मालवा पर ग्रधमखां (अ्म्बर का धाभाई) ने आक्रमण किया तो गागरोण मुगलों के हाथ गया।'" श्रठारहवीं शताब्दी के प्रारम्भ तक यह किला मुगलों के अधिकार में रहा । औरंगजेब की मृत्यु के बाद दिल्ली की राजनीति में उथल-पुथल होने लगी । बहादुरशाह की मृत्यु के बाद सैय्यद भाईयों का मुगल राजनीति में प्रभाव बढ़ा। उनको सहायता देने के उपलक्ष में सेय्यद भाईयों ने महाराव भीमसिंह (सम्वत्१७६४-१७७७) को गागरोण का किला दे दिया | तब से यह किला हाडा राजपूतों के आधीन रहा । कोटा के प्रधान मन्त्री फाला जालमसिंह ने इस किले की मरम्मत कराई तथा अपना बारूदखाना तथा रिजर्व सेना का केन्द्र यहीं रक्खा। इसी के पास छावनी बसाई जहाँ कोटा की सेना का मुख्य केन्द्र हो गया ।
कोटा दरबार की यहाँ पर पहले टकसाल थी जहाँ मुगलाई सिक्के ढलते थे। यहाँ के तोते अत्यन्त प्रसिद्ध हैं। इस किले पर अनेक लड़ाइयाँ हुईं । किले में मिठा शाह की दरगाह भी है जिसके दरवाजे की दाईं दीवार पर फारसी में एक शिलालेख लगा हुआ है जिससे प्रगट होता है कि मियाँ मुश्नज्ञम और मियाँ बजद्दीन खाँ वहलमी ने हि. सं. ७५० के जिल्हीज (वि. सं० १४०७ फाल्गुण < फरवरी १३५० ई०) में यह गुम्बज बनाया था। दूसरा लेख हि. सं. ६८७ जिल्हीज (वि. सं. १६३७ माघ -ई. सं. १५८० जनवरी) का बीकानेर के राठौड़ कल्याणमल के पुत्र सुल्तानसिंह का है जो उस समय गागरोणा का हाकिम था। उस समय उल्वी खाँ के पुत्र मियाँ ईसा द्वारा दरवाजा बनवाए जाने का उल्लेख है। तीसरा लेख हि. सं. €९१ मोहरंम (वि. सं. १६४० मार्च १५८३ ई.) का यहाँ के हाकिम राठौड़ सुल्तान के समय का है। इससे पाया जाता है कि छतन्नी थानेश्वर निवासी उल्वी खाँ के पुत्र मियाँ ईसा ने बनाई थी । किले में अनेकों शिलालेख मिले हैं जो इस किले के इतिहास पर पर्याप्त प्रकाश डालते हैं। किले में दुर्गा, गणोश, शित्र श्रादि की कई मूर्तियाँ हैं ।
The Gagron fort (Dod Garh) is one of it’s kind as towers of the fort are blended with Mukundara Hills of the Vindhyan mountain ranges where the hill itself is acting as the foundation of the fort. Being surrounded with water, it is also called ‘Jaladurga’. its a sight to behold during monsoon. The rivers are full and one can see the “Jal Durg” true to its name. This 12th-century fort is covered on all four sides with water. The confluence of Ramganga and Saryu rivers covers its three sides while a deep, water-filled moat is on the fourth side to make it impregnable.
It is situated 12 km from Jhalawar town and one has to cross a causeway over Kalisind River to reach the fort entrance. The approach road to fort entrance is non-descript and non-metallic. The walls have been built over rock and it has no foundation into the earth.
One of the things that makes a place special and memorable are its quirks and didn’t disappoint in such ‘department’ either.The setting couldn’t have been more picturesque or dramatic, and one would think that Gagron Fort would be impregnable and unconquerable. History, however, tells us otherwise as Gagron has seen many battles, sieges, two jauhars (or self-immolation by Rajput women) and change of rulers.
The Forts of Rajasthan make an integral part of the state’s foundation and history. The forts sing a tale of bravery and sacrifice of the kings and queens. Each fort has its unique characteristic and design that has helped it withstand wars and harsh weather.
One of the most distinctive palaces is the Gagron Fort that stands out for its a typical Rajput architecture and history. It is believed that the construction of the fort started as early as the seventh century and the fort was standing strong in the 14th century.
Gagron Fort was established around late 7th century by King BhimSen Dod of the Dod (Parmar) Rajputs whose 41 Generations ruled from here for 500 years. The fort saw a few major battles. The most decisive was the battle in 1519 where Rajputs under Rana Sanga defeated Mahmud Khilji II. The history of fort has also seen a massive act of sati, where all women draped in their bridal dress, jumped into the flames to avoid themselves falling in hands of enemies. That place still exists in the Fort.
For long, the magnificent fort didn’t place well in tourist circuits but since 2013 the Fort grew in its fame and name.
On June 21, 2013, five forts of Rajasthan were declared the UNESCO World Heritage Site, of which Gagaran Fort was also one with 5 other Forts was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The location of the fortress makes it glorious and awe-inspiring. The fort is surrounded by the calm waters of the Ahu and Kali Sindh rivers on three sides and a moat on the fourth side. The unique location makes it the only ‘jal’ and ‘van dunrg’ (water and forest protected) in Rajasthan.
One striking feature of the fort is that the real foundation of it lies ambiguous and that’s what makes one wonder about the splendid construction. There are various temples of Lord Shiva, Lord Ganesha and Goddess Durga inside the fort.
It is believed that the Fort was gone in the hands Khinchi Rajputs for 200 years after Dod (parmar) Rajputs position Weakens. The palace has witnessed 14 wars and 2 jauhars, where women sacrificed their lives rather than facing capture. Unlike other forts which have 2 ramparts, Gagron fort has 3.
One of the most impressive ramparts across all forts in India, Ram Burj oversees the confluence of Ramganga and Saryu rivers. The Mukundara Mountain Range serves as a backdrop to the glorious fort that is now inhabited by parrots and peacocks.
Alexandrine parrot found in the Gagron Fort area (popularly known as Gagroni parrot) used to be a major attraction at Gagron. This parrot is biggest amongst all parrots. They are bright green with red spot on wings. The male have an attractive ring around their neck.
These are also called Hiraman parrots. They have very sweet and they sound like real humans. These birds are however rare to sight now a days and they are now on the verge of extinction.
Achaldas Khinchi was the last Khinchi ruler of the historically renowned fort. In 1423 AD, Sultan Hoshangshah surrounded the fort with his massive army leading to a siege. Achaldas Khinchi estimated his defeat but sacrificed his life fighting with valor. After the victory of Hoshangshah he was so impressed by the bravery of Achaldas that he did not meddle with his room and his bed and remained in the same place till 1950.
With its unique location, fascinating architecture and remarkable history Gagron fort leaves a lasting impression in one’s mind. Historians are divided over when the fort was built. Some say that construction of the Gagron Fort began in the 7th Century CE and continued until the 14th century; others say that it was built in the 11th century. One reason why an earlier date is ascribed to the Fort is the absence of lime mortar (which started getting used in construction only in the 10thCentury CE) in some parts of the Fort.
Dod Earlier also rule over chandanvati state in present day vadodra, Gujarat To Ancient Baran Present day Bulandshahr, Aligarh, Meerut, Hapur region, Uttar Pradesh Present Hadauti was earlier occupied by Harun al-Rashid the caliphate sons. The second, Al-Mamun obtains Zabulistan, Sind, and India, and ruled them till A.D. 813, when he became Caliph. who was the fifth Abbasid Caliph. Bheemsen Dod assist in defeating them and established their capital at Dodgarh (Gargum). This is mentioned in an Inscription of v.s. 847 (791 AD).
This area was under King Aprajita of Nagavanshi rulers . We have nothing important to record of the actions of Aparajit, who had two sons, Kalbhoj and Nandkumar. Kalbhoj succeeded Aparajit, and his warlike qualities are extolled in an inscription discovered by the author in the valley of Nagda. Nandkumar war with Bheemsen Dod (Doda) of Dodgarh in the South. whom being succeeded by Govindpala dor(doda) and continued to rule here 500 years till v. s. 1300 (1243 AD).
The inscription, dated a.d. 971, is in form of a dedication to LakulTsa, a form of Siva represented as bearing a club, and refers to the Saiva sect known as Lakullsa-Pasapatas. It records the name of a king named Sri-Bappaka, ' the moon among the princes of the Guhila dynasty,' who reigned at a place called Nagahvada, identified with Nagda, an ancient town several times mentioned in The Annals, the ruins of which exist at the foot of the hill on which the temple of Eklingji stands. Sri-Bappaka is certainly Bapa or Bappa, the traditional founder of the Mewar dynasty, which had at that time its capital at Nagda.
during the reign of prithvirah just before ghorid invasion the ruler of this area was Bijaldeo. Bijaldeo had left a grant of v.s 1271 ( A.D 1195 ) according to this grant 40 generations of dod's ruled here. In accordance with the legends in the past.
The last Khinchi-Chauhan ruler was Achal Das, who was defeated by Sultan Hoshang Shah of Mandu in 1423. Alauddin Khilji laid siege to the Fort in the 14th century, but failed to capture it, while Rana Kumbha won it in the 15th century. Bahadur Shah of Gujarat won this Fort from Mewar’s Maharana Vikramaditya in 1532. The Gagron Fort was captured by Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1561 and it remained with the Mughals till 1715, when Maharao Bhim Singh of Kota got it as a grant from Aurangzeb. Gagron remained with Kota till India’s Independence.
Gagron finds mention in the Akbarnama and there is a beautiful illustration by the artist Madhav Kalan of Akbar taking control of the Fort. Before the formation of Jhalawar state in 1838, the area that forms Jhalawar present day Jhalawar city was developed as a chhauni or military outpost by Zalim Singh, Diwan of Kota, and grandfather of Maharaj Rana Madan Singh Jhala, the first king of Jhalawar. Zalim Singh used to camp at the Gagron Fort, but by the time Jhalawar state was formed and Madan Singh arrived here,
The Fort was already in ruins. While Gagron’s location is impressive, it is also quite impractical — during the monsoons, access to the Fort is limited and it often gets cut off (something that happens even today). This was not a very good position for a ruler to be in, especially a new ruler of a new kingdom who needed to be accessible to his people rather stay in a remote Fort.
Gagron fort is located in Jhalawar district of Rajasthan state. It is located on the confluence of the Kali Sind river and the river Ahu. It is located 13 km north of Jhalawar. Sufi saint Khwaja Hameeduddin Chishti is at the dargah near the entrance of the fort. There is also a three-day Urs Fair every year.
Sometimes this fort used to have 92 temples, and the hundred-year-old almanac was also made in this.
This fort stands on the ground without any foundation,in this are three parquota in the fort, whereas the other fort in Rajasthan has two per quota only. Two entrances in the Gagaron fort is open to on a hill and second open on the side of the river.
Gargon fort is the only fort in India whose foundation is not found.
Allauddin Khilji invaded the fort in the thirteenth century which King Jait Singh Khichi had failed. From 1338 to 1368, Raja Pratap Rao ruled Gagrone and made it a supplementary principality. After becoming a Sanyasi, he was called to King Sant Pipa. in the Dwarka of Gujarat today the monastery of his name is.
By the middle of the fourteenth century, the Gagaron fort had become a prosperous principality, because of this, the Muslim intruder ruler of Malwa got the eye on this fort. In 1423, Hoshang Shah surrounded the fort with thirty thousand army and several other rich kings together.
Being surrounded by stronghold water, Hoshangshah could not enter the fort and camped outside the fort. At the time of the crisis, the the entire town used to take shelter in the Gagaron fort, as it was the proper storage place for water and grains, in spite of the invasions of Hoshang shah, the town dwellers remained safe in the fort for many months.
In the end, Hoshangshah came to know that with the help of a route of the river, water goes to the fort, there is grain arrangement in the fort. So he dumped cow meat in the river. Due to the shortage of contaminated water and grain water, Hoshangshah was forced to come out of the fort to fight for weak Achaladas in military power.
After the conquest of Hoshangshah, he was so influenced by the bravery of Achaldas that he did not tamper with the king’s personal residence and other memories. For hundreds of years, this fort remained with the Muslims, but without fear or respect, no one dared to remove or destroy his bed from the bedroom of Achaladas. By 1950, this bed was placed in the same place.The defeat was certain, therefore, better than the death of cowardly Raja Anchal Das attacked the army of attacked Hoshang Shah.
The interesting thing about this bed that at time the people believed that the king would come and sleep on this bed every night. At night, many people had heard the noise of someone’s hookah drinking from this room.
But for all the beautiful views that the Fort of Gagron offers, and there are a plethora of them, what shall remain with me is the feeling of emptiness and immense sadness that gripped me at the sight of a vast Jauhar Kund .Leftist historians and feminists might harshly judge the queens and thousands (maybe hundreds) of their attendants and commoners who performed Jauhar – the ritual self-sacrifice by jumping into flames to avoid falling into sexual slavery of marauders from alien cultures- but then how does ever reason with compulsive contrarians ?
The story of Jauhar is also present in this Gagaron Fort of Jhalawad. After entering thefort, Jauhar Kund comes first, thousands of women have made jauhar for the Rajput's limit in the common sight. Some historians do mention mass immolations by a couple of tribes as a measure of protection against Alexander’s invasion , but the fact remains that almost all of the instances of jauhar by women in the medieval period occurred as measure of protection against rapacious Islamic invaders . Some notoriety these Islamic hoards must have enjoyed ! One must realise that these women made conscious choices to embrace such horrific fates rather than bear the ignominy of religious conversions and physical tortures . Gagron witnessed two instances of jauhars, the second of which is recorded and widely reported .
This fort, which looks ruins today, whose corridor looks deserted, he has heard the last conversation between two queens and a king, he has felt the death near him. Raja Achchaldas Khichi was married to Princess Lala Kanwar of Mewar and Princess Kaumudi of Bikaner.
In 1423, King Achal Das Khinchi died after fighting valiantly against Hushang Shah of Malwa. The kund area which is the site of this tragic event bears deathly silence and stands as testimony to the persecution that Hindus have faced in the past millennium in their own lands. Before the time of war with Hoshangshah, Achal Das had spoken for the last time on the place shown in the above picture with both the Princess. Hoshangshah defeated Achaldas with treachery in Rane and made the bandage, the queens made the jewelers guarded with the other women of the city as soon as the news reached the fort, and the fort of Gagaron remained a deserted fort. Akbar, Bahadur Shah and several other Muslim rulers after the Honsashshah fought and ruled the fort.
In the year 1532, Bahadur Shah of Gujarat attacked the fort and won it with Maharana Vikramaditya of Mewar and ruled for several years on the fort; Hiraman Parrot, found in Bahadur Shah Fort, used to be with him, Hiraman was an expert in speaking tongues. And loyal too. In that period the Mughals were emerging as a dangerous state, Humayun defeated Bahadur Shah and conquered the fort and captured that Parrot too.
The commander of Bahadur Shah, Rumi Khan, had left his boss before the war and joined Humayun. It is said that when Rumi Khan came to Humayun’s camp, seeing this, the parrot started shouting the traitor-traitor. Rumi Khan was very embarrassed to hear this and Humayun became angry and said that if he was a man in the parrot then I would have cut his tongue.
Gagaron Fort After Independence India
The fort was in ruins till recently. In 2013, UNESCO gave it the status of World Heritage Site. Restoration work is being undertaken now. It is a long walk within the Fort, with inadequate markings of the structures. Without a guide, one would be lost. The walk withing is very long, if you want to explore the place. Carry adequate water and fruits to keep yourself refreshed. Vehicles are not permitted inside Fort. There is a Dargah of Mittheshah, a sufi saint, located near the Fort.
Across Aahu River, there is a Temple of Saint Pipa Ji, who was a contemporary of Saint Kabir.
One can see the entire grandeur of the fort from this temple. Another good view of the Fort is from a village located on hill top across Kalsindh River, South East of the Fort.
Inside the fort Ganesh Pol, Nakarkhana, Bhairavi Pol, Kishan Pole, Silehkhana are the important door.
Apart from this, there are other important historical sites in the Dewan-i-Aam, Diwan-e-Khas, Janana Mahal, Madhusudan Mandir, Rang Mahal, etc. The fort complex.
This fort built on the confluence of the Kalisindh and Ahu river is the center of attraction for tourists due to the surrounding green hills. The panoramic view of the Gagaron Durga is very attractive to tourists. This is a great picnic spot for the people.
The fort is currently undergoing conservation work. Water management system, Madhusudan temple, smaller and larger living quarters , baroodkhana (armoury) have now been repaired .There is an entry fee of Rs 50 for Indian tourists, which the locals very much resent considering that this used to be a desolate lovers’ paradise till few years back .The fort does not attract many tourists from afar because of lukewarm promotion by Rajasthan tourism, but is worth a visit for those who want to study fort architecture.
Places Near by to see
Garh Palace (Jhalawar Fort) -
The fort was built by Maharaj Rana Madan Singh from 1840-1845 AD and located in the centre of the town. The fort was under renovation (Sep 2018) and entry was prohibited. The Palace will be soon opened as Heritage Museum. Highlight of the Palace is the Zenana Khas (women’s quarter) which has impressive frescoes. The collectorate and few government offices operated from the Jhalawar Fort, but these offices have been relocated.
Prithvi Vilas Palace -
It was built in the year 1912 by King Bhawani Singh. The palace can be entered from three sides and also houses a monogram that states the stories of humility and chivalry of the former rulers. Spreads in about 150 acres of land, it is surrounded by lotus moats. In the palace on can see intricate carvings, domes, chhatris, magnificent old furniture and paintings. Presently, a family member of the former ruler of the place lives in this palace.
Bhawani Natyashala (भवानी नाट्यशाला) The Opera House at Jhalawar -
This is 99 year old theatre built in 1921 by the then Maharaja Bhawani Singh to promote art, theatre and culture.
The construction, grandeur & enormity of this Natyashala can match any big Opera House that we see on European Circuit. The Natyashala is multistoried with common as well as private viewing balconies. The stage is so huge that chariots & horses could easily be accommodated as part of Plays. At present, the Natyashala is undergoing renovation, along with Garh Palace. Don’t ask me how I managed to sneak inside and spend enough time to soak into the aura of this theatre. Standing on the stage gave me a feeling of a solo character performing on stage with over 1000 people in audience. The more I stayed there, the more I felt this place come alive.
Bhawani Natyashala
Sun Temple, Jhalrapatan (झालरापाटन) -
Jhalrapatan is a fortified town located on the banks of river Chandra Bhaga. The township has old quarters with narrow lanes / streets and is also referred as City of Temple Bells. There are over 100 temples within the fortified walls, the most prominent being the 11th/12th-century Sun temple.
The temple is in a good state of preservation. The temple has beautiful sculptures of gods and goddesses. The temple has three entrances. The sanctum has statue of God Padmnabh.
Scuptures inside the Sun Temple
The temple, located in Jhalawar district, is believed to have been constructed in 1356 A.D. by a satrap of the Gagron kingdom, Chandra Bhan Singh Khichi Chauhan.
The architecture of this temple, where the deity Jalpa Chandra Bhan has been worshipped for centuries, has a very traditional construct. With no mortar or limestone, the structure has interlocked stones on the fulcrum principle - adding to symmetry and beauty.
Chandrabhaga Temples -
These are 7th century temples, located on the banks of Chandrabhaga river and being manitained by ASI. These temples are old and in ruins, thus very few tourists visit here. Temple of Sitaleswar Mahadeva is the in the best state of preservation. It is believed that the maximum damage to these finely scultured temples was caused by Aurangzeb.
Chandkheri Jain Temple -
The Jain temple at Chandkheri is dedicated to Shri Adinatha (Rishabhanatha) & built in 17th century. The temple houses a 6.25 feet statue of Shri Adinatha in sitting position which is believed to be more than 1500 years old. One can reach this temple by state run bus or shared jeeps.
Shri Adinatha Jain Temple at Chandkheri
Buddhist Caves and Stupas -
Buddhist Caves and Stupas are prime attractions of the Jhalawar. These primordial rock-cut caves, which were excavated from the village of Kolvi hold considerable archaeological and historical significance. This village is located at a distance of 90 km from the city of Jhalawar.
The elephantine structure of Lord Buddha and the beautiful carvings on the stupas further add to the splendour of the caves. Several villages surround Kolvi village, as if acting as the epitome of the thriving civilisation that existed centuries ago. One can clearly sense the significance of Buddhist culture in the natives of the region.
Chandrabhaga fair Jhalawar is held in Jhalrapatan, which is six kilometer away from Jhalwar. River Chadrabhaga flows beside and people take a holy dip in the river. This fair is held in the auspicious day of “kartik purnima”, when thousands of pilgrims take a dip in the water. The holy dip in the water is generally taken in the last day of the kartik. This holy dip is known as “Chandravati” by the common people.
Gangaur (March / April): Primarily a festival for women, Gangaur is held in honour of Goddess Parvati. Women pray for their husbands, unmarried women entreat the goddess for a good groom. Processions are taken out, women draw water from wells, pick flowers and sing hymns.
Kalisindh Thermal Power Station - This is located 12 km from Jhalawar town on the banks of Kalisindh River. Its chimney is 275 m (902 ft) high. The two cooling towers of the facility are 202 m (663 ft), the tallest in the world. These can be clearly seen across the hill, from Jhalawar.
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