Friday, January 22, 2021

LEGACY OF KAFFU CHAUHAN INDOMITABLE PRIDE - IMMORTAL RAJPUTS


Once upon a time a prince by name Ajay Pal ruled over Garhwal. At this coronation all the chiefs and nobles of his kingdom attended his darbarto pay homage to him , except Kaffu Chauhan who lived in the fort called Upgarh. The Raja Summoned him to his darbar; but he replied that he (Kaffu) was like a lion among beasts and as Garud among birds and would not pay homage to Ajai Pal. The King warned him that if he persisted in his disloyalty, his territory will be invaded. 

Kaffu Chauhan Replied that far from paying homage to Ajai Pal, he (Kaffu) would invade Srinagar, the capital of Ajai Pal and destroy his palace and gardens. Ajai Pal could not bear this insult and invaded Kaffu's Territory with a large army under his personal command. He reached the banks of the Ganges opposite the strong and high fort of Upgarh. The mother of Kaffu Chauhan saw from the window of the fort the opposite bank of the river covered with a huge mass of men and asked Kaffu Chauhan what it was.  Kaffu Chauhan said that it was the army of King Ajai Pal whom he had offended by refusing to pay homage. 

On hearing this Kaffu's mother wept and said:

"O my dear and only son thou Can not possibly fight against such odds single-handed. Go and apologize to The King who, I am sure, will pardn thee."

 Kaffu Replied:

"I cannot atoop so low, I belong to a true Kshatriya Family. My father's soul world vurrse me from heaven for my cowardice."

Kaffu Chauhan the descended from his fort and cut the ropes of his suspenaion bridge which used for  crossing the river. When King Ajai Pal's general went to attack Kaffu's fort next morning they find found the bridge broken and informed King Ajai Pal about it. Ajai Pal was much enraged abd ordered his army to put up another suspension bridge and surrounded tge fort. Seeing  this Kaffu'smother was much frightened and again remonstrated with her son. Kaffu said that he would not yield even if his head was seperated from his body. Kaffu put on his armour and riding his war horse rushed out of the fort and attacked the enemy with the utmost heroism. He destroyed the whole army of the enemy single-handed. Stream of blood flowed and the ground was covered with corpses. After killing the whole army of King Ajai Pal, Kaffu Chauhan went to river side to rest. One of the officers of Kaffu Chauhan's army  had been fighting with with a small army elsewhere. But they were all killed by the enemy. Kaffu's mother, seeing this, though that Kaffu too had shared the same fate. She preferred sucide  to falling a prey to the enemy. She, therefore, set fire to the fort and perished with the rest of Kaffu's family. When Kaffu Chauhan returned home, victorious, he was stunned by the terrible sight and stood, as though turned to stone, at the gate of the fort. In the meantime some of Ajai Pal's army arrived, and seeing Kaffu in that Plight informed King Ajai Pal, 

Who was overjoyed and went himself to the place then King Ajai Pal said to his men, 

"As Kaffu would not bow to me while he was alive cut off his head in such a way that it may fall at my feet." 

When the soldiers were about to cut off Kaffu's head, he shook with rage, swallowed two handfuls of dust and stared at Ajai Pal with contemptuous smile. When Kaffu Chauhan head was seperated from hus body, instead of falling at King Ajai Pal's it fell toward his Head. King Ajai Pal was so struck with the heroism of Kaffu Chauhan that he performed his funeral rites with military honours on the banks of the river.




कफ्फू चौहान (जीवनकालः 16वीं सदी का प्रारम्भ): उप्पूगढ़ (पट्टी जुवा उदयपुर, टिहरी गढ़वाल) का इतिहास प्रसिद्ध गढ़पति। आन-बान का धनी, स्वाभिमानी, मातृभूमि के रक्षार्थ प्राणोत्सर्ग कर देने वाला अकेला वीर पुरुष।

राजा अजयपाल जब ई.सन 1500 से 1520 के मध्य गढवाल के लगभग सभी गढ़ों को अपने अधीन कर चुका था, तो विजय अभियान में उसकी नजर उप्पूगढ़ पर पड़ी। इसका गढ़पति उन दिनों चौहान वंशीय युवक कफ्फू चौहान था। कफ्फू चौहान अत्यन्त स्वाभिमानी था। उसे अपने गढ़ की स्वाधीनता प्राणों से भी प्यारी थी। राजा अजयपाल ने कफ्फू चाहान को बिना युद्ध किए अधीनता स्वीकार कर लेने का सन्देश भिजवाया। कफ्फू ने राजा का प्रस्ताव यह कहते हुए ठुकरा दिया कि "मैं पशुओं में सिंह और पक्षियों में गरुड़ की तरह हूँ। मुझे किसी की अधीनता स्वीकार्य नहीं है।" कफ्फू की इस गर्वोक्ति पर क्रुद्ध होकर राजा ने सेना भेजकर उप्पूगढ़ पर चढाई कर दी। कफ्फू की मुट्ठी भर सेना राजा की विशाल सेना के आगे टिक न सकी। पूरा उप्पूगढ़ ध्वस्त हो गया। हजारों ललनाओं ने जौहर कर प्राणाहुति दे दी थी। कफ्फू को जीवित बन्दी बनाकर राजा के सम्मुख पेश किया गया। उसने फिर भी अधीनता स्वीकार नहीं की। राजा ने हुक्म दिया- "कफ्फू का सिर काटकर मेरे पैरों पर गिरा दो।" इससे पहले कि कफ्फू का सिर धड़ से अलग होकर राजा के पैरों पर गिरता, उसने मातृभूमि की मिट्टी मुंह में फांक ली और गर्दन को ऐसा झटका दिया कि दूर गिरने से पहले राजा के मुख के सामने से गया। यह दृश्य देखकर राजा अजयपाल स्तब्ध रह गए। ऐसे वीर, स्वाभिमानी, स्वाधीनता प्रेमी कफ्फू चौहान के मृत शरीर के आगे राजा बरबस बोल उठे- "वीर! तुम जीते, मैं हारा।" राजा ने स्वयं कफ्फू चौहान को मुखाग्नि दी। कफ्फू चौहान के इस मतवालेपन से स्थानीय लोग आज भी उसे कफ्फू झल्ली (सनकी) कहकर याद करते हैं। कुछ वर्षों पूर्व तक कई लोग उप्पूगढ़ को सौट्यालगढ़' कहते सुने गए। गढ़ के भग्नावशेष प्रायः लुप्त हैं। 

Thursday, January 21, 2021

JAISALMER -THE GOLDEN CITY OF MAHARAWAL JAISAL BHATI - IMMORTAL RAJPUTS

सूरज पूछे सारथी भू पर किसरो भाण 
जुझारू यदुवंश रो चमके गढ जैसाण ।

जुग जुग जियो जैसाण।


काशी मथुरा प्रागवङ गजनी अर भटनेर, दिगम देरावर लुद्रवो नंवमो जैसलमेर।



सूरज पूछे सारथी, भू पर किसरो भाण ।
झुंझारु जदु वंश रो, चमके गढ़ जैसाण ।।



घोड़ा कीजै काठ का, पग कीजै पाषाण।
बख्तर कीजै लोह का, तब देखो जैसाण।।


" गढ़ दिल्ली गढ़ आगरों , अधगढ़ बीकानेर।
भलो चिनायों भाटियाँ, सिरै तो जैसलमेर।


जैसलमेर दुर्ग - सोनारगढ़

इस दुर्ग के बारे में अबुल फ़ज़ल ने लिखा है कि "यहां वही आदमी पहुंच सकता है, जिसकी टांगें पत्थर की हों"

‘Ghoda kijiye  khaat kha

Pind kijiye pashaan

Bhakthar kijiye lohe kha

Phir dekho Jaishaan’


it means ‘Ride on a horse made of wood that does not feel hungry or thirsty, make your stomach an iron one, wear clothes of metal and then visit Jaishaan/Jaisalmer’.


The old saying was specific to the harsh weather of the desert that told everyone visiting Jaisalmer to toughen up a little. The locals also expand Jaisalmer as ‘Ja Saale Mar’ and interpret that people were sent here as a punishment to suffer in the harsh weathers of the desert and compensate for their crimes.


To explore it’s diversity, culture and its authentic unique tradition. The golden city of the state “Jaisalmer” embodies the name for its vast sand dunes and the homes that camouflage in the shimmering tones. The endless desert glistens in the sun and with it gleams the magnificent fort painting everything golden except the sky.



The land of Jaisalmer district was famous as ‘Madhara’ or ‘Vallabhmandal’ in ancient times. According to history, after the Mahabharata war, a large number of Yadavs migrated from Mathura.

They headed towards Rajasthan and Gujarat. The ancestors of the erstwhile rulers of Jaisalmer who consider themselves descendants of Lord Krishna, probably came to the land of Jaisalmer in the sixth century.

In this district, the descendants of the Yadu lived at Tanot, the first capital of the Bhati Rajputs, the second at Ladhwa and the third at Jaisalmer.


The Jaisalmer fort stands mightily overlooking the city and is a testimony of Rajput strength and triumph.  The fort grows from the Thar Desert and grabs attention while still being veiled. Jaisalmer (founded in 1156AD) is an example a hill fort in desert terrain. The extensive township contained within it from the outset, still inhabited today, and the group of Jain temples, make it an important (and in some respects even unique) example of a sacred and secular (urban) fort. — (UNESCO, "Hill Forts of Rajasthan" —Decision: 37 COM 8B.31) With 5 other forts, the Jaisalmer fort was regarded as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2013.

 
The king behind the eponymous city Jaisalmer was founded in the 12th century by Maharawal Jaisal of the Bhatti dynasty, which traces its lineage to Lord Krishna. The rulers of the Bhatti dynasty had earlier ruled from Lodrava, which they had been forced to leave due to repeated invasions.


A search for a safer and defensible location for a new capital led the Bhatti rulers to Trikuta Hill about 30 km away and construction of the Jaisalmer Fort began in 1196. The Fort took 7 years to complete, and subsequent rulers kept making additions and alterations to it. With a length of over a kilometre, a circumference wall of 5 km, a 2–3 m thick fortification wall, 99 bastions, a retaining wall at the base of the Trikuta Hill, and a stone barricade ringing the hilltop, the Jaisalmer Fort has a good defense system in place. The information board at the entrance to the Fort says that “the main fort has two walls running parallel with a gap of 3–4 m to enable movement of troops”.


A fort was thus built, which from miles away looks just like a sheer cliff acting as a mirage protecting it from enemies. Jaisalmer fort also known as ‘Sonar Quila’ or ‘Sone ka Quila’ by the locals, the Jaisalmer fort is one of the very few forts in India which is still inhabited by residents. Approximately a fourth of the population still lives inside the walls of the fort.


The History of Jaisalmer has a charm of its own. Like all other cities of Rajasthan, Jaisalmer too has its own glorious past to boast about. History of Jaisalmer draws heavily from the history of the Rajputana. The Maharawal's of Jaisalmer trace their lineage back to Jaitsimha, a ruler of a Rajput clan, though Deoraj, a famous prince of the Bhati clan during the 9th century. With him the title of “Rawal” commenced. “Rawal” means “of the Royal house”.


In the 12th century, Rawal Jaisal the eldest son of the Rawal of Deoraj was passed over in favour of a younger half-brother for the throne of Laudrava.

Trikoot Garh, Battlements.

While checking out Trikuta a massive triangular rock rising more than 75 metres out of the surrounding sands as a more secure location for a new capital, Rawal Jaisal meet a sage called Eesul, who was staying on the rock. Upon learning that Jaisal was of Yaduvanshi descent, Eesul told him that according to ancient mythology Krishna and Bhima had come to this location for a ceremony, where Krishna had prophesied that a descendant of his Yaduvanshi clan would one day establish a kingdom here Eesul showed him a spring which Krishna had created and his prophecy craved into a rock. Encouraged by this meeting Rawal decided to move his capital to this location despite Eesul predicting that it would be sacked two and a half times.


It was founded on 12th July 1156AD by the Bhati Rajput king named Jaisal on the Trikut hillls. Jaisalmer was named after its founder king Jaisal, meru in Sanskrit means ‘mountain’.


Water scarcity is a major problem for the people of Rajasthan (previously known as Rajputana). But around 650 years ago, Ghadsisar- a lake, solved this problem for all. Ages ago, the kingdom of Jaisalmer was ruled by a noble and intelligent king, who was called King Ghadsi by his people.


He was a very kind king who was always worried about his people. Everything was good in the kingdom. But during one year it all changed. During that year Jaisalmer did not receive any rain. The people became worried due to the lack of water for their basic needs.


King Ghadsi was told about the poor condition of his kingdom. Being a good king he decided to do something about it. He knew that water scarcity was always a problem in Rajputana. So, he thought of an idea that could solve this problem permanently. He called his ministers in the court to discuss about this matter. Finally, he told his people that he will make a lake to solve the problem of water in Jaisalmer forever. He built it with the help of his people.


Since, King Ghadsi built this lake it was called Ghadsisar. Sar means a lake. Ghats with steps were built around the lake along with large halls, decorated rooms, and verandahs. The steps led to the waters of the lake. People came to the ghat to celebrate festivals and children went there to study. Everyone took care of the lake and it belonged to each one of them. The lake collected rainwater. If water was too much in the lake, it flowed to a lake at a lower level.


When that lake was also full, then water flowed into third lake at a still lower level and so on. This way there were nine interconnected lakes. These lakes collected water and as such there was no shortage of water and it could be used throughout the year. 


Thus, the problem of water was solved in Jaisalmer.



Medieval Era Struggle


In medieval times, Jaisalmer continued to be on the focus of the masses because of its location. It falls in the way of one of the two routes, which connected India from Persia, Egypt, Africa and the west. The Bhatti Rajput rulers were still in line. They were the sole guardian of the city and thus mustered enough wealth through taxes levied on the passing caravans, of which there was no scarcity. For many years Jaisalmer remained out of bound from the foreign rulers partly because of its location and partly because of its relief. 

In the mid Thirteenth century, Ala-ud-din Khilji, the Turk-Afghan ruler of Delhi laid the siege over the city. He was apparently upset with the Bhatti Rajput rulers because they stopped and looted one of his caravans containing royal coffer which was on its way to Sind. The siege lasted for around 9 long years and when the fall seemed eminent the Rajput womenfolk of the city committed Jauhar (self Immolation to avoid disgrace).

Sati Imprint Jaisalmer

The first jauhar of Jaisalmer occurred in 1294, during the reign of Turkic ruler of Delhi, Alauddin Khilji. It was provoked by Bhatis' raid on a massive treasure caravan being transported on 3000 horses and mules. Alauddin Khilji was so outraged that his army marched upon Jaisalmer. Rawal Jethsi sent the children, elderly and sick, together with some troops to refuge in the desert and applied a scorched earth policy to the countryside surrounding Jaisalmer while building up a massive store of food within the fort. According to local ballads, the Bhatis defended the fort for 8 years during which the forces left outside of the walls occupied themselves attacking the supply lines of the besiegers. During the siege Rawal Jethsi died and was succeeded by his son Mulraj II. By 1294 the besiegers had received sufficient reinforcements that they were able to impose a complete blockage of the fort which soon exhausted the Bhati’s ammunition and food. The Bhatis, facing certain defeat, decided there was no alternative but to perform the rite of jauhar. 24,000 women committed suicide, most on a funeral pyre though some were killed by the swords of their male relations when the pyre proved too small. The men 3,800, in number then threw open the gates of the fort and advanced to their death.For some years afterwards Jaisalmer remained abandoned before the surviving Bhatis reoccupied it.


In the late 14th century, Firuz Shah Tughluq, a Turkic ruler of Delhi, also besieged Jaisalmer after a prince of Jaisalmer raided his camp at Anasagar Lake near Ajmer and carried away his prize steed.

The siege led to the second jauhar of the prophecy, the suicide of 16,000 women and the death of Rawal Dudu and his son Tilaski together with 1,700 warriors.

During the 15th century the Bhatis once again reoccupied the site and continued to rule with some independence.

The “half jauhar” of the prophecy occurred in the 16th century when Amir Ali, an Afghan chieftain obtained Rawal Lunakaran’s permission to let his wives visit the queens of Jaisalmer. Instead of a retinue of palanquins containing women they were full of armed warriors, which took the guards of the fort by surprise. When it seemed to the Rawal that he was fighting a losing battle he slaughtered his womenfolk with his own hands as there was insufficient time to arrange a funeral pyre. Tragically immediately after the deed was done, reinforcements arrived, sparing the men from the Jauhar and Amir Ali was defeated and blown up by a cannonball. Hence, it is called a half jauhar or Sako.

Mughal era


While initially Jaisalmer came into conflict with the Mughal invadders, Rawal Lunakarn had a fight with Humayun. Later MahaRawal Sabal Singh rebuilt Jaisalmer fort in stone and extend the kingdom northwards to the Surej River and westward to the Indus River. Attempts to expand to the east bought Jaisalmer into conflict with Bikaner, which led to Anup Singh of Bikaner invading the kingdom. He was repulsed by MahaRawal Amar Singh (1661–1702) 

MahaRawal Akhai Singh


Though peace was only finally concluded by MahaRawal Akhai Singh (1722–62). Despite these disruptions, the period was a time of growth and prosperity with the ruling family and the resident merchants building many beautiful palaces and havelis.

Maratha era

Due to its isolated location and the protection of the desert the kingdom was little effected by attacks by the Marathas which effected other kingdoms in the region. However from this time until the accession of Maharawal Mulraj in 1762 the fortunes of the state rapidly declined, as most of its outlying provinces were lost to Rathor clans of Bikaner and Jodhpur, the treasury became depleted and the population shrunk.


Maharawal Mulraj


Territorial stability was obtained during the reign of Maharawal Mulraj’s (1762 to 1819) when in 1818 he signed a treaty with the British, which protected Jaisalmer from invasion provided it was not the aggressor and guaranteed the royal succession. Jaisalmer was one of the last Rajput states to sign a treaty with the British. Jaisalmer was forced to invoke the provisions of the treaty and call on the services of the British in 1829 to avert a war with Bikaner and 10 years later when it was threatened by Afghan forces.

Jaisalmer had a respectable treaty with very little interference from British, similar many other Rajput states, which they had to sign due to continuous raids of Marathas & their plunderings.


Following the collapse of the Mughal Empire in the 18th century, Jaisalmer, like the rest of Rajputana, became subservient to the Marathas, until it came under the protection of the British East India Company in 1818, following the British victory in the Third Anglo-Maratha War. In 1818, the Rawals of Jaisalmer signed a treaty with the British, which protected Jaisalmer from invasion provided it was not the aggressor and guaranteed the royal succession. Jaisalmer was one of the last Rajput states to sign a treaty with the British. Jaisalmer was forced to invoke the provisions of the treaty and call on the services of the British in 1829 to avert a war with Bikaner and 10 years later in 1839 for the First Anglo-Afghan War.

British Raj


Flag of the princely state of Jaisalmer
During the British Raj, Jaisalmer was the seat of a princely state of the same name, and was entitled to a 15 gun salute.

Maharawals of Jaisalmer


Bairi Sal Singh 

1864-1891


Salivahan Singh III 
( Last Indepndent Ruler )
1891-1914


Jawahir Singh 

1914-1949


Girdhar Singh 

1949-1950


Raghunath Singh 

1950-1982

His Highness Maharajadhiraj Maharawal RAGHUNATH SINGH Ji Bahadur, Maharawal of Jaisalmer Dussehra 1955 Jaisalmer

Maharawal Bairi Sal Singh was granted an achievement western style at the occasion of the Delhi Durbar of 1877:



Arms: Party per bend embatteled Tenné and Sable, a nude sinister arms holding in bend sinister a broken spear Argent.

Crest: A wagtail (Motacilla cinerea - Motacillidæ) proper.

Supporters: Two antelopes (Antelope cervicapra - Bovidæ) proper besanté.

For


As traditionally, the main source of income for the kingdom was levies on caravans . The economy was heavily affected when Bombay emerged as a major port and sea trade replaced the traditional land routes. Maharawals Ranjit Singh and Bairi Sal Singh attempted to turn around the decline but the dramatic reduction in trade impoverished the kingdom.

A severe drought and resulting famine from 1895 to 1900 during the reign of Maharawal Shalivahan Singh only made matters worse by causing widespread loss of the livestock that the increasingly agriculturally based kingdom relied upon.

Maharawal Jawahir Singh’s (1914–49) attempts at modernization also failed to turn the kingdom’s economy around and it remained isolated and backwards compared with other areas of Rajasthan.

1947 Onwards

In the modern era, Jaisalmer was still a tough nut to crack and was the last among the Rajputana royals to sign the 'Instrument of Agreement' with the British establishment. Even that was achieved after long hours on the negotiation table and after much cajoling from the British establishment in India. Following the independence of India in 1947, Jaisalmer acceded unto the dominion of India. On May 15, 1949, it was united with certain other princely states to form the present-day Indian state of Rajasthan.

The partition of India in 1947 lead to the closing of all the trade routes on the Indo-Pak border and reduced Jaisalmer a drought-prone desert backwater on the international border. Ironically, skirmishes between India and Pakistan gave Jaisalmer a strategic importance and resulted in it being built up into a major army base.


Pakistan Invasion of Jaisalmer in 1948

The alacrity of a maharaja and nobility of another. And it’s not even a century old.

Late on the night of 24 February 1948, Maharaja Hanwant Singh of Jodhpur received a telegram sent by Maharajkumar Girdhari Singh of Jaisalmer, apprising him of the intelligence received by him. The telegram read:


upward of 500 intruders from Bahawalpur have entered the country and have reached Dewa, about 24 miles from Jaisalmer, looting livestock and devastating the settlements en route. Succour solicited from Jodhpur to immediately deploy aircraft, trucks or other means to contain the advancement of the enemy.

Jodhpur Maharaja Hanwant SinghJi immediately called his prime minister, commanders of state military and police forces; consulted with them on the situation and issued instant orders to deploy Jodhpur Lancers and other forces to counter the enemy, moving them in trucks and jeeps, along with means of communication like wireless sets etc to Jaisalmer; declare emergency condition in the state; to seize temporarily all transport vehicles for state usage; defer fueling of private vehicles by petrol pumps. He informed the defense minister Sardar Baldev Singh in the interim government of India about the invasion and the immediate measures undertaken by him to cope with the menace.

Maharaja Hanwant Singh also ordered one of his airplanes to fly to Dewa to report the status of advance by the enemy, and another one to bring Jaisalmer royal family to Jodhpur for safety. The latter task was assigned to the commander of Maharaja’s bodyguard force Durga Horse, Col Mohan Singh Bhati.

When Col Mohan Singh conveyed the message of Jodhpur Maharaja to Maharawal Jawahar Singh to come to Jodhpur along with his family and valuables for safety; the Maharawal replied:


I will be with my countrymen in such perilous times. It will be cowardice to depart, leaving them to face invaders. I shall not impart this slur to my illustrious race. Tell your Maharaja to send military aid. We shall prefer to die fighting the foe rather than leaving Jaisalmer.

A sortie to monitor the movement of intruders frightened them and they began the quick retreat, leaving all the animals, fearing an air attack. By the time personnel from Jodhpur arrived through surface transportation, the intruders were well within their homeland.

Currently the 44rd generation royal descendants stay in the fort after MahaRawal Brijraj Singh untimely demise.

The Royal Estates of Bhati Rajputs were:
Jaisalmer(Raj) Sirmaur and Bashahr(HP)

The Thikanas were Pugal-Rajasthan (Place 4m where Sati Mata Padmini belongs), Sodawas-Jodhpur, Hadla(Erst. rulers of Derawar state now in Pakistan).


The princely image of the jagirdar of jaisalmer

Today the fort is a cultural extravaganza comprising of narrow lanes, temples, residents, handicraft shops, guest houses, and restaurants. The fort creates a conscious memory in one’s mind for its glorious design and regalia. The fort withstood harsh weathers, storms and many attacks by rulers like Alauddin Khilji and Emperor Humayun. Two jauhars (self-immolation) acts took place around 1295 and 1326 in the Kilji and Tughalq dynast period.


The city of Jaisalmer was once the only route that connected India with other Asian countries. Hence their only source of income was tax collections from passing caravans, it lost its importance after the sea routes were introduced and was completely closed after partition. It now largely depends on tourism for sustaining. Later, the Rajasthan Canal served to revive the surrounding desert areas.  The opening of a paved road in 1958 and the completion of a railroad in 1968, connected the hitherto remote town with the rest of Rajasthan. These links allowed Jaisalmer due to the attractions of its old city to develop into one of the major tourist destinations in Rajasthan. In spite of the crowds, traffic, filth and awkwardly planted electric poles that pass everywhere obstructing the views this fort is still simply magnificent and enchanting.


The Jaisalmer fort is an adorably lavish one that depicts an amazing architectural insight, willpower and skills of people in those days who built such a massive fort in a hostile desert. The entire fort has been built with yellow sand stone in the interlock system where each stone brick is grooved and embedded with another. This fort is more like a gated community in its true sense. This marvelous 1000 year old architecture built without the use of cement or water still stands robustly glowing golden under the scorching sun of the Thar.


The massive yellow sand walls turn a tawny-lion shade as the sun rises and turn honey-gold as the day proceeds matching the shades of the sun and the sand. The structure of the fort engulfs one as the delicate architecture in the fort is protected by the double fortification walls and circular bastions marking the fort’s primary line of defence.


The two hundred and thirty feet tall fort is protected by the sandstone walls and 99 bastions. The view of the semi-circular bastions of the fort sitting high on the Trikuta Hill was spectacular. The defense system of the fort city is interesting with three layers of fortifications and 99 bastions.


While the outermost layer is a simple wall built of solid stone blocks, the innermost wall was laden with heavy stones which were hurled over the invaders and then hot oil was poured over them which trapped the enemies between the inner layers of walls.


The 1500ft long fort has four entrances, one of which was said to be guarded by a canon. The Rajput architectural style of the fort allures the eye and looks stunning under the moonlight.


Traditional architecture, roadside shrines, veiled women, absence of a sense of urgency, cows and dogs, bird calls, people sitting and chatting in squares, the silence that comes from absence of motorised vehicles — all contributed to the feeling of time travel to a couple of centuries ago.


It has 4 arch gates or dwaras namely Akke dwar, Raja dwar, Surajpool dwar and Ganesh Hawa dwar. The path to the royal palace in the main square of the fort winds through four massive gates.


Akhai Pol (Pol means gate), Suraj Pol (Suraj means the sun) is built to receive the first rays of the morning sun, Ganesh Pol, and the Hawa Pol which opens up into the main square of the fort the Dusshera Chowk.


The positioning of the doors is another great defense system, the gates aren’t placed in a straight line but twists and turns uphill which hinders the energy of the elephants used to batter the doors and confuses the army. The gateways have beautiful carvings done on them.


The entrance to the second gate Suraj Pol is flanked by huge watchtowers known as Haathi tower (Elephant tower) and there are numerous beautiful richly carved Jharokas (windows) along the way.


Dussehra Chowk


Dusshera Chowk is a prominent square in the heart of the fort surrounded by several imposing buildings including the splendid Maharwal Palace. 


The remarkable carvings and latticework in sandstone on windows and archways reminded us of the wonderful Jodhpur fort or the Mehrangarh Fort. Next, to the entrance of the palace, a set of marble stairs lead to the marble throne where the kind addressed the public and its subject. There is a small temple in the square which also has some interesting artwork.


Maharwal Palace and the Fort Museum

The five-level exquisitely carved palace offers its visitors an insight into the history and heritage of Jaisalmer. The exhibit includes ornate silver throne, palanquin, huge armory collections with ornate embellished rooms. The museum also displays interesting sculptures dating back to 15th century, stamps and other artifacts. The tour of the museum ends at the rooftop terrace which has a commanding view of the golden city of Jaisalmer. One can opt for the audio tour which walks through the museum exhibits.


Laxminath Temple

Laxminath temple is one of the ancient Hindu temples in the Jaisalmer fort built in 1494 by Rao Lunkaran. The temple enshrines Hindu deities of Vishnu & his consort Goddess Laxmi (Goddess of Wealth). The guides generally tend to give this temple a miss so do remember to include this in your list.

the king’s palace or Rajmahal which is a museum now


The whole of Jaisalmer is studded with ornate yellow sand stone architecture radiating a sun gold shimmer under the sun.


Every other house, haveli and hotel is built with yellow sand stone which is a distinctive feature of Jaisalmer. 


This Royal city of Rajputs makes you feel as if you are still in some ancient time surrounded by golden structures that spread as far as your eyes can see.


This is a lattice on the window in a legendary palace in jaisalmer, the surprising thing is that it is not made of iron or steel, but it is made of stone, now you guess, how much dedication and hard work our ancestors / Architects have! 


Like Tilon Ki Pol a gateway to Gadisar Lake an artificially created lake in the 14th century. A courtesan dancer called Tilon built the gateway and the ghats it was objected by the royal queens who threatened demolition as they would not pass under the arched gate built by a prostitute when they accessed this lake hence the prostitute built a Vishnu shrine above it in order to save it from the royal ire.


Such an intricate and detailed workmanship in stone, one needs to see them to believe it.
This one is Patwon ji Haweli in Jaisalmer 

Patwaon Ki Haveli located in the narrow lanes amidst the market place. It is an ancient home of a rich merchant of the 18th century named Patwa who built this chamber of 5 havelis for his sons.

The Patwa Haveli gives a real feel of Rajasthan with its incredibly beautiful carvings and art work. It has arched brackets, ethnically colored glass work jharokas(ornate balconies), the walls and ceilings are studded with mirror work and bright artistic paintings.  You can see lot of beautiful silk brocade work here a little expensive though.


A mansion known for its distinctive architecture, Salim Singh ki Haveli (Salim Singh’s Mansion) at Jaisalmer truly signifies an artist’s vision through its beautifully carved brackets.


it is a 300 year old structure with beautifully carved arches and gives a good view from the roof top. The entire structure is built in interlock fashion without the use of water or cement in fact the whole structure could be folded and moved. A portion of it is still occupied by Saalem Singh’s descendants. Saalem Singh was tyrannical prime minister of the king.


It had lot of interesting artifacts made of brass ivory and wood which were up for sale but was over-priced. But at present the poor maintenance and the obnoxious location it stands in amidst the narrow roads with closely packed dwellings that have engulfed it. You can’t even click a decent shot of the front view as the roads are too narrow and to add to it there are open reeking gutters which is a common sight throughout Jaisalmer.


Patronage of Art, Culture and Religion under Rajputs.


Spectacular visuals of ancient Indian Architectural Marvel.

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Who can deny its mesmerizing beauty? Truly Heaven on Earth !!

Jain Temple


Details of ornate Torana from Jain Temple, Jaisalmer
It is a usual Makara Torana having cusped arch shaped outer curve decorated with triangular leaf pattern(basically a quadrant of Chakra). Miniature shrine are placed at inflection point. these intricately carved Jain temple that has over 6666 thirtankara statues inside the temple that are made up of marble, panchloha, kasoti pathra, sandstone and Habur stone. The Jains were very rich and powerful during the Rajputana rule who greatly aided the Rajput kings financially. The Jain temple is astonishingly beautiful.

Did you know Habur stone is a kind of fossil limestone that can curdle milk and set curds from the bacteria present in this stone.



Rajput Rulers of Jaislamer were Hindus but they were great patrons of Hinduism and Jainism.
A wonderful example of temple architecture is found in the Rajput Period in Jaisalmer.


The great jain temples of Chintamani Pārsvanataha, Rishabhadeva,Šāntinātha,Sambhavanatha and Mahāvīra in the fort of Jaisalmer constructed one after another between the 12th -15th centuries in the reign of Rajput Rulers were excellent. The temple of Bhagvan Parshvnatha(23rd tirthankar) which was built in the twelfth century is the oldest and still in great condition. It was repaired from time to time.


The present temple is built in  the reign of Maharawal Jai Singh Bhati in 1416 . Besides religion, art and literature prospered under the patronage of the Bhati Rajput rulers of jaisalmer thinking this place to be safe and secure from the Islamic invasions scholars pursued their literary activities.


Sambhavanath temple itiated by the Oswal brothers in Ad 1416.
The interior wall of the temple beautifuly carved with animal and human figures. Jain religion continued to progress in the time of the Rajput rulers of Jaisalmer. Like Raula Ajayaraja donated golden cupolas for a Jain temple in Ranthambore.



A copy of the Uttarādhyayanas ūtra Dipikāsaha was written at jaisalmer during  reign of Rāula Harirāja (22th Maharawal of jaisalmer) in 1571 AD. The copies of the Tattvārthasūtra, and Kālikāchārya were made respectively in 1585 and 1602 A.D when Maharawal Bhim Singh (23rd) was ruling.
The consecration ceremony of a pillar of the Pārśvanātha temple was also performed in 1606 A.D.

Jinabhadrasūri who lived in the fifteenth century A.D. spent the best part of his life in establishing the store-house of knowledge at of Jaisalmer in medieval times.


The Vyas Chatri at jaisalmer are the most fabulous structures in Jaisalmer, and one of its major tourist attractions. Dedicated to Sage Vyas, who wrote the epic poem Mahabharata, Vyas Chhatri has beautiful memorials and is a ceremation ground for Brahmins.



Rajput/Kshatriya rulers have given patronage for indigenous religions to flourish since time immemorial.
Starting from Buddhism & Jainism and even till Sikhism.
Rajput rulers were devout Hindus and sacrificed everything for safeguarding sanatan, but never imposed it on others.



Bada Bagh, Jaisalmer

Bada Bagh incorporates the Chhatris of Maharawals of Jaisalmer, the Bhati Rajputs of Yaduvanshi Clan, descendants of Shri Krishna, who ruled over Jaisalmer from 1156-1947.


 The dynasty at Jaisalmer was established by Rawal Jaisal Singh in 1156.
Jait Singh Bhati II (1493–1528), commissioned a dam to create a water tank during his reign in the 15th century. This made the desert greener and life easier of the people. 


 After his death, his son Lunkaran built a beautiful garden next to the lake and a chhatri

(Hindi for cenotaph) for his father on a hill next to the lake. Later on, many more cenotaphs were constructed here for Lunkaran Singh Bhati and other Kings of the Dynasty. 


Today, the Cenotaphs(Chhatris) lie in dilapidated state, but even the ruins of these structures tell us about the Glorious Past of our ancestors.


The point to be noted is that even after constant attacks from Invaders, these Cenotaphs are in such great state. 


But all the beauty, charm and period atmosphere of the golden fort of Jaisalmer cannot hide an important truth — Jaisalmer Fort is falling to pieces due to natural and human-made causes.

Though major restoration work and repairs have been and are being carried out, it is not enough to deal with the damage from water seepage and inadequate civic amenities. Portions of the retaining wall are simply giving away and I saw what looked like large cracks running along the length of the Fort as well. Though seismic activity in the region has weakened the foundations of the Fort, the demands made by the growing population and high tourist footfall is equally if not more responsible.

Jaisalmer survives on its tourist-based economy and every local is connected in some way or the other with tourism. For most people living within the Fort walls, it has meant opening up their houses or portions of their houses during the tourist season or even converting their houses into hotels. Then there are eating places that have opened all over the Fort to cater to the tourists. This has led to a Fort meant for 1,000-odd residents housing 3000 residents at any given point. These numbers increase by the hundreds during peak tourist season putting pressure on the existing amenities in the Fort.

For some years now, there have been talks of shifting the residents from the Fort or at least not allowing tourists to stay within the Fort premises. Both options have been met with stiff opposition by the residents as it would mean loss of home and for some loss of income as well. It is really a Catch-22 situation at the moment.