ETERNAL MEWAR - IMMORTAL RAJPUTS

।।एकलिंग गिरिराजधर ऋषभदेव भुजचार।।
।।सुमिरौं सदा सनेह सों चारधाम मेवार।।
।।या कुल को यह बचन हैं जानत सब संसार।।
।।जिन्ह दृढ़ राखै धर्म को तिन्ह राखै करतार।।

Have you ever seen the fire, blazing red, burning bright with the trail of warmth it leaves behind? Fire is considered a symbol of unison, of marriage, the altar being the holy epitome of the ceremony.

However, when you ask the residents of Mewar, the fire represents the valour of their womenfolk, their queens and damsels and signify that the maidens too, combat a battle with the ones who breach the impregnable walls of their territory, a deadlier battle in which the lusts of the advancing army remain unsatisfied and their sick ambitions are drastically defeated.

Mewar is an oasis amidst the desert. The principality is known for the cornucopia of forts that jot the landscape along with the quaint lakes and baolis.

The exquisite efficacy of the Kingdom of Mewar can be best delineated by what Frank Genhry ingeminates.

“Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness…”

Notable among these are the imposing Vijaya Stambha, built as a minaret, after a decisive victory against Mahmud Khilji, way back in 1440 CE, the Kirti Stambh, constructed in the Solanki style of architecture with intricate carvings of Digambaras and an Adinatha statue, the revered Kalikamata temple and the nearby wildlife sanctuaries which include the Bassi, the Sitamata and the Bhainsrorgarh retreats.

There are immense instances of Jain architectural works in Rajasthan, the most noteworthy among all being the Dilwara Jain Temple atop Mount Abu.

Besides historical marvels and deserted palaces, there are numerous boat rides and folk artistic cultural practices that a tourist can immerse himself in.

Commencing with the Bharatiya Lok Kala museum, that houses the Rajasthani culture, food patterns, dresses, tribal jewellery, turbans, dolls, masks, musical instruments and musical devotional bhajans by Meerabai,the legendary devotee of the Krishna, paintings and puppets of the Rajputana era in Udaipur, one can entertain himself at the Sajjangarh Palace, viewing the breathtaking sunset, beyond the mounds.

Where the Rajput valour adorns the Indian principality of Rajasthan.

Rajasthan is shaped by conflict, either against nature or against foreign invaders. The harsh desert environment affected trade, agriculture and water resources, and constant warfare hindered the building of urban settlements, human migrations and expansion of territory. As a result, Rajasthan was divided into small kingdoms competing with each other for land, power and resources. Urban settlements were confined within walls of heavily fortified hilltop forts. However, the tenacious spirit of Rajputs prevailed over unfavourable circumstances and they managed to retain their freedom during much of Mughal rule and throughout the British Raj (except in Ajmer).

Their struggle is reflected in the history of Mewar, established by the legendary Bappa Rawal in the eighth century. As Northern and Western India came under waves of foreign invasions from the tenth century onwards, Mewar managed to remain independent. Their capital at Chittor was attacked several times, first by Alauddin Khilji in 1303, then by Bahadur Shah of Gujarat in 1535, and finally by Mughal Emperor Akbar in 1567–68. Each time the valiant Rajput men rode out to die in battle while their women and children committed Jauhar (self-immolation) rather than be taken captive. Although the Rajputs could never formally annex Chittor again, its astounding marvel awes spectators till today.

Their warriors are recognised for their unbelievable strength and integrity in battle. Their women are known as ‘sati’, the faithful one who fights beside her man, until deathbed!

Indian history embellishes itself with the certitude that the Rajputs of Mewar stood up against any and all foreign intruders, into the revered grounds of Hindostan.

From Mahmud of Ghazni to the Mughal Emperor Babur, none could step into the Indian soil without waging a fierce battle with the warriors who protected its domain.

Towards the southern central part of Rajasthan, comprising the gallant districts of Bhilwara, Udaipur, Chittorgarh, Pratapgarh, Rajsamand, Jhalwara and extended parts of various districts of Gujarat, the kingdom of Mewar was an influential state that dominated the political scenario of the era.

It was protected by the Aravallis to the northwest, the Rajputs of Ajmer to the north, the Sultanate of Malwa to the southeast and the Hadotis to the eastern frontier.

This position was both militarily and commercially, strategically important to its kings.

Bappa Rawal is considered the founder of the magnanimous citadel. Way back in 730 AD, he asserted his independence on the region and took on the title of Rawal, thus commencing the reign of the legendary Suryavanshis over the area.

Historical texts and the sacred Ekalinga Purana credit Bappa Rawal with establishing the famed Eklingji temple in this region. Legends and folklores form a significant part of Bappa’s reign. It is widely promulgated that when Bappa went to visit a saint, he spit on the king, asking him to receive it in his mouth. However, the king, in disgust, allowed the spit only to fall at his feet and thus, the saint’s blessings of immortality remained ineffective.

However, since the spit fell at his feet, he is attributed to have become invincible to any weapon that opponents might hurl at him.

With this holy guardian, he went on a rampage against the invading Arabs, who had devastated the Mauryas of Mewar.

With his efficient generalship, the confederacy led by Bappa Rawal, won a decisive victory against the Arab commanders.

Indian history is not to be blamed for eclipsing the valiant efforts of the Rajputs, often victories, against foreign invasions.

Why are these victorious battles lost in the pages of history?

Colonial historians are the cause. In an attempt to divulge the religious sects, they brought out various distorted versions, where successful Mughals and the Muslim invaders were visualised as ‘aliens’ and the Hindu kings were synonymous with ill treating their Muslim subjects, often being portrayed as powerless puppets, taking no note of the battles they won!

The Rawal dynasty decimated with Alauddin Khilji annexing its territories in 1303, assassinating the last Emperor, Maharawal Ratnasimha , the consort of the legendary Padmini or Padmavati, who committed Jauhar as an aftermath and Chittor was left deserted.

After the Guhilots, ruled the Sisodias, whose kings were equally known for their valour and defending their citadel.

Chittor’s history forms an undaunted fraction of the Indian historiography. Jauhar had been committed once again, in 1535, when Rani Karnavati was defeated by Bahadur Shah.

In 1567, with another siege laid by the Mughal emperor Akbar, the Mewar Suryavanshis migrated to a place higher up and named it Udaipur. Rana Udai Singh built the Udaipur as we know it today.

The most significant point in the architecture is about the Mughal styles intermixing with the traditional Rajput and Indian ones. Udaipur has various palaces to its name.

Having lived through the fall of Chittor twice in a span of twenty years, Maharana Udai Singh II (r. 1540–1572) shifted to Gogunda and searched for a new site that was more defendable and closer to a large waterbody. 

In a dry state like Rajasthan, the availability of freshwater played a critical role in withstanding long sieges. He stumbled upon an artificial lake that had been created by Banjara tribes in 1362 CE. Surrounded by the Aravalli Hills, with thick forest cover and vantage lookout points, this lake became the nucleus of a new city which Udai Singh II named after himself, Udaipur. He undertook building a new palace by the lake, which got named Pichola, after a nearby village of the same name. 

To prevent the lake from drying up, successive maharanas undertook dam construction and sophisticated water harvesting methods. Pichola expanded to a network of lakes, connected to each other through conduits and channels. These are Fateh Sagar, Swaroop Sagar, Rang Sagar and the smaller Doodh Talai lake. As the city expanded, the elite of Mewar built numerous palaces, havelis, gardens, pavilions, temples, ghats, shrines and gateways around these lakes. The palace started by Udai Singh II expanded, and successive generations added 11 new palaces to the original structure. This is now the City Palace, open to tourists as a museum and a much sought-after wedding venue of the haut monde. 

Today, this city alone, forms one of the most visited tourist destinations in Rajasthan, known for its epitome grandeur. Attributed the sobriquet of the City of Lakes, it has almost seven major and numerous minor water bodies. The luxurious city palace stands tall, along the banks of the Pichola Lake.

The cool waters of the lake attracted Mewar royalty to build palaces on Pichola where they lived during the hot summer months. The first such palace is Jag Mandir, which was expanded by Maharana Karan Singh II (r. 1620–1628) and finally completed by Maharana Jagat Singh I (r. 1628–1652), after whom it was named Jagat Mandir. In 1623, Maharana Karan Singh II gave refuge to Prince Khurram (later Emperor Shah Jahan) and his family, who at that time was engaged in armed rebellion against his father, Mughal Emperor Jahangir. During the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny, Maharana Swaroop Singh gave refuge to Europeans fleeing from Neemuch and sheltered them at Jag Mandir.  

Udaipur’s other, more famous water palace is the Lake Palace, formally known as Jag Niwas, built between 1743 and 1746 by Maharana Jagat Singh II (r. 1734–1751), after whom it was named. One of the first royal palaces to be converted to a heritage hotel in India, the Lake Palace has hosted the rich, powerful and famous from around the world. Former guests include Vivien Leigh, Queen Elizabeth of Britain, the Shah of Iran, the King of Nepal, and US First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy, to name a few. In 1971, Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces took over the management of Jag Niwas and restored it to its past glory. 

The hotel was featured in the 1983 James Bond movie Octopussy, as the mysterious lair of the titular character Octopussy (played by Maud Adams), which brought Udaipur global fame. In Octopussy, another palace was featured as the hideout of the chief antagonist, Kamal Khan—the Sajjangarh Palace, located atop the Aravalli Hills. This palace was named after Maharana Sajjan Singh (r. 1874–1884). He had intended it to serve as an astronomical observatory but dropped the idea later. On completion in 1884, it served as a hunting lodge, offering a panoramic view of Udaipur city and its lakes. The palace overlooks Sajjangarh Wildlife Sanctuary, a forest reserve for reptiles, tigers, nilgai, sambhar deer, wild boars, hyenas, panthers and jackals. Because it was intended to observe monsoon clouds, it is popularly known as the Monsoon Palace. 

 Another vantage point overlooking Pichola Lake is Machla Magra, meaning Fish Hill. The Karni Mata Temple on top of the hill offers a panoramic view of Udaipur city. In the past this hill served as an observation post, and, during times of war, cannons were placed on the hill to fire at an approaching enemy. Crumbling old walls can still be seen on the way to the summit of Machla Magra, which is accessed via ropeway. Pichola Lake is surrounded on all sides by the Aravalli Hills, serves as an important nesting ground for a large variety of migratory birds.

Pichola’s most famous ghat is Gangaur Ghat, the venue of the eponymous Gangaur festival which takes place in March-April in celebration of Goddess Gauri, consort of Lord Shiva. Processions are taken out from the City Palace, passing through Udaipur, and ending at Gangaur Ghat. On normal days the ghat is popular with tourists and bird feeders who feed flocks of pigeons here. In the morning, citizens come for morning prayers, bathing or washing clothes. Unfortunately, the detergents and waste from these activities are degrading the water quality.

The deterioration of Udaipur’s lakes is a result of a massive spurt in tourism and the steady expansion of the city itself. Before the introduction of piped water, Udaipur’s lakes fulfilled the drinking water and freshwater requirements of its citizens, but its role in modern times is limited. Udaipur is a popular destination for both Indian and international tourists, and most of them prefer staying in hotels surrounding the lake. Dozens of lakeside hotels and restaurants, plus thousands of households collectively discharge tons of human waste and sewage directly into the lake. This has not only polluted the lake but also negatively impacted its flora and fauna. The lake once had a large population of crocodiles, but they were hunted to near extinction. Very rarely is one spotted nowadays. 

Another threat to the lakes is siltation, which has accelerated due to mindless deforestation of the surrounding Aravalli Hills. The thick forest cover seen in old paintings and photographs is gone now. Each monsoon, rainwater washes away the topsoil and tonnes of silt get deposited in the lakes. This is slowly filling up the lakes, and in a hundred years they will be completely filled up if the Aravalli forest cover is not restored and steps aren’t taken to desilt the lake bed. The tourism industry, on which Udaipur’s economy is heavily dependent, will cease to exist if the lake turns into a cesspool, or worse, gets filled with silt. Udaipur and its lakes are intertwined in history like conjoined twins. One cannot exist without the other, and they cannot be separated. For Udaipur’s own future, Pichola and its sisters must be defended by the citizens of Mewar, the same way they defended their freedom.

Mewar ki Bhoomi aur sisodiya kul ka karz ye desh kabhi chuka nahi paayega.

जब उनके शीश समर भूमि में उतरते थे,
वे ऐसे लोग थे जिनके कबंध लड़ते थे।।

(कबंध- धड़)

Dhanya Ho Mewar